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When I was carpeting my van, I couldn’t find a tutorial on how to remove the trim around the inside door handle on my Gen 3 Peugeot Expert. So, I thought I’d make a short tutorial showing how it's done. Tools Used The only tools you'll need are a screwdriver with a 6-lobe Torx head and a trim removal set, which will make the process much easier. The Process Start by using the trim remover to pry out the plastic centrepiece around the handle. Once that has been removed, it will reveal two screws that hold the main trim in place, along with the door handle itself. After removing these screws, it’s simply a matter of pulling the trim away from the door. The trim is held in with plastic tabs, and if any of these get stuck in the door, they can easily be removed and re-slotted back into place. Once this is done, you'll be able to access the door handle for replacement or to re-carpet your van more easily, as we did. For more Peugeot Expert tutorials, visit my YouTube channel .

Welcome to the sixth instalment of our camper conversion series! In this post, we'll be carpeting the walls and doors of our 2020 Peugeot Expert. You'll find a step-by-step guide along with helpful tips and tricks for your own conversion project. Tools Used: Smoke grey carpet X2: Link High-temperature spray adhesive: Link Stanley knife with plenty of replacement blades Fabric scissors Fabric measuring tape & pen Screwdriver with six-lobe Torx screw head and 11mm socket Trim Removal Set: Link Lining the Back Doors Marking The Door Seals We started by marking the point where the door met the rubber seals. We'd be using this to know where to spray the adhesive. Removing The Door Handles, Locks, and Trim Next, we removed the door handles and loosened the locks so the carpet could fit underneath. This would make the process easier and provide a cleaner finish once the job was done. We used a six-lobe Torx screw head and an 11mm socket (pictured above). Taking Measurements We measured the door with a fabric measuring tape to account for the curved edges. We settled on 95cm, which gave us plenty of fabric to work with. Glueing Down The Carpet Once the fabric was cut to shape, we got started with the adhesive spray, starting at the top of the door. It's a contact adhesive, so you'll need to spray both the door and the carpet. We worked our way down, gently stretching the fabric to avoid wrinkles and using our fingers to press it into the grooves for crisp, clean edges. Since the adhesive spray takes a while to dry, we were able to pull the carpet off and readjust it if needed. The material itself was quite flexible. We used a sharp Stanley blade to cut holes just large enough to fit the carpet around the locks and the latches. Once these locks and latches were positioned through the carpet, we glued the carpet down. The process was the same for both doors, with the only key difference being the location of the door handle. I taped over the recessed door handle so it wouldn't get attached to the carpet. Trimming The Edges Once all the carpet was stuck down on both of the rear doors, I went around trimming the edges. I used a fresh Stanley blade for every two or three cuts so the edge would be clean. As soon as the blade gets a little dull, it's very noticeable. By referring to where the seals meet the door, I was able to cut the carpet so it wouldn't stick out too far, which is important as this could cause a leak. Tip: If you leave the door shut for a while, the rubber seals will leave an imprint on the carpet, letting you know where you need to make the edge. Reinstalling The Trim Once the carpet had been successfully installed, the last job was re-screwing in everything that we had previously removed. I had to cut holes for the screws and pushed the rubber trim back over the carpet along the edge where the doors meet. Fixing Stiff Rear Doors After I had finished reattaching the lock latches, I found the doors were much more difficult to open than before. To fix this, I unscrewed them a bit so they were still held in place but had some wiggle room. I lifted the latch into a position where the door would shut more easily while still holding itself in place. Once I was happy with the position, I tightened them back up. I did this on both sides, and after it was done, they opened much more smoothly than before I had removed them in the first place. Lining the Side Doors Marking The Door Seals Like with the back doors, I started by marking the point where the doors met the rubber seals. Removing The Door Handles Next, we removed the door handles. For this, I used a trim removal tool to pry out the centre plastic piece around the handle. Once this was removed, I could then access the two screws that hold the main piece of plastic trim in place. Finally, I removed the last piece with a trim removal tool. Taking Measurements We used the fabric measuring tape again to measure the door; this time, we settled on 1.3 metres. Glueing Down The Carpet After we had cut the fabric to shape, we got started with the adhesive spray. We started in the middle this time, as this would make it easier to mark the screw holes that will hold the upper piece of plywood in place. Most of the side doors will be covered with the ply lining, except for the middle section and edges. The process was exactly the same for both doors this time. Trimming The Edges Once all the carpet was stuck down, I went around trimming the edges. This time it was a bit more fiddly due to the lack of space. I have seen people take the whole door off for this part of the job, but I thought it would be more work than needed, and I didn't want to risk scratching the outside of the door. After trimming around the edges, I cleaned them with isopropyl alcohol to remove any excess carpet and oversprayed glue. If the knife became dull during the process, the edges would appear more fuzzy. In that case, I would go over it again with a fresh blade and re-trim the edges for a cleaner finish. Reinstalling The Trim Once the carpet had been fully stuck down, I reinstalled the trim around the door handle. Fixing Creases On three out of the four doors, we had to fix sections with overlapping material. To remedy this, we: Cut out a diagonal line from the corner and glued down each section, leaving a gap in the middle without spray. Once the pieces were stuck down, we went over both of them with a Stanley knife. Finally, we removed the excess piece from the centre, and the remaining two sides met in the middle. Then they could be glued down. Lining the Walls Section Around The Side Doors Using the remaining fabric from the first roll of carpet, we covered the section of wall above the door after removing the rubber seals. The only tricky part of this section was covering the metal that protrudes from the wall. However, it only took a few cuts to allow the material to stretch around its edges. This section will eventually be covered by the curtain, which we'll be installing at a later date, so it didn't need to be perfect. Then we overlapped a second piece of carpet and used a fresh blade to cut both pieces along the same point. Once the first piece was glued down, we carefully lined up the second one before glueing it down as well, making the seam hardly noticeable. See the video above for more details. After both pieces were attached, I trimmed off the excess material and reinstalled the seals. The process was the same on both sides, except for having to work around the wires that run along the left side of the van’s roof. Side Panel I decided to carpet only one of the larger side panels. The side next to the bed will be carpeted, while the other will be painted. I chose this approach to avoid having carpet next to the stove while cooking inside the van, and it should also make the interior a bit brighter. This was the point when the first roll of carpet was used up. I started by placing the plywood panel over the carpet and cutting out a rough shape. Before continuing with the carpet, I glued and clamped down a chipped piece of wood, then sanded the edges to make them smooth. Once the wood was ready, we used the adhesive spray to stick down a strip at one end. From there, we rolled the carpet up and worked our way down, being careful to avoid making any creases. When the first side was fully glued down, we marked the screw hole points, then flipped the panel over. We had to make some cuts so the fabric could stretch around the edges. We also trimmed any overlapped material, as too much would have pushed the panel away from the wall and made gaps. The back side didn’t need to look perfect; the material just needed to cover the edges. We made a mistake by carpeting over the screw holes on the rear of the panel, as the hardened adhesive was very tough to get through. If I were to do this again, I would cut out those sections to avoid the holes—this would have made the reinstallation much easier. Rear Arch Before we could reinstall the plywood lining, we had to carpet the rear arch of the van. We started by taping over the light and door lock loops. Then, we removed two pieces of trim, one of which involved unplugging the 12V charging port. There were also some wires running along the top of the van that we carefully cut free to create more space. Next, we measured and cut a long strip of carpet to cover the entire section with one piece. We ended up having to make one cut in a corner, using the same method as above the door, as the carpet became misaligned. As with previous sections, once the job was complete, we trimmed away the excess material, including around the light, and reinstalled the trim. Reinstalling the Carpeted Wooden Panelling With all the carpeting done, the final step was reinstalling the plywood lining. I found it easiest to start by screwing in the side nearest the side door, as I could see the screw holes more easily. When I couldn’t find the holes, I used a longer screw to identify them, then pushed the wood to bend it closer to the wall before screwing it in. This was a little tricky, but it looked great when it was done. What's Next? In the next instalment of our campervan conversion series, we’ll be reinstalling the ply lining after giving it a fresh coat of paint. For more van content, visit my YouTube channel here . Click here for a full list of all our campervan conversion posts

In this blog post, we'll be taking a look at some practical ways to make cooking less physically demanding for people living with POTS and other forms of dysautonomia. What is POTS? First, let’s define POTS. Postural Orthostatic Tachycardia Syndrome (POTS) is a condition that falls under the umbrella of dysautonomia—a group of disorders related to dysfunction of the autonomic nervous system . The term “autonomic” refers to the self-governing nature of this system, which controls involuntary functions that we do not consciously regulate. These include breathing, digestion, heart rate, blood pressure, body temperature, sweating, and more. Click here to learn about a POTS-friendly diet and how it can keep unwanted symptoms at bay. Cooking With POTS Meal prep and cooking can be a physically demanding task for those living with a long-term health condition. These tips and tricks will help to reduce that physical strain and bring some fun back into the kitchen. Meal Preparation It’s best to plan and prepare meals when you’re feeling your best. Creating weekly menus can save time and reduce decision fatigue. Consider making multiple portions that can be frozen, providing quick and easy options for days when your symptoms are more challenging. Supporting Yourself While in the Kitchen Using a stool instead of standing while you cook can help reduce the strain of staying upright for long periods of time. Another effective way to support your blood pressure is wearing compression clothing, which is often the first recommended management technique after a POTS diagnosis —along with hydration (more on that later). Using a slow cooker or microwave is another way to minimise the need for prolonged standing, especially on days when you’re not feeling your best or when a stool isn’t enough. Use Simple Recipes Opt for quick, minimal-ingredient dishes to avoid fatigue—remember, simple, healthy meals don’t have to have simple taste. Some POTS friendly meals include: Tuna pasta Omelette Lentil soup Oatmeal with berries and nuts Whole grain toast with avocado and tomato Keeping meals light and protein-rich can help prevent blood pressure drops related to digestion. Break Meal Prep into Smaller Tasks Wash, chop, and portion vegetables and proteins ahead of time. This break in between tasks will give your body some much needed time to recover. Continue Practising Your Regular Self-Care Keeping up with a regular self-care routine will keep your body in the best shape possible and help you handle triggering tasks. Stay Hydrated : Drink fluids regularly during meal prep to reduce strain on your heart. About 3 litres of water a day is generally recommended for people with POTS. Regulate Temperature : Heat can also be a common trigger. Keeping a window open or limiting time spent in hot environments can help avoid flare-ups. Medication: Don’t forget to take your doctor-prescribed medication, such as midodrine, which should be taken every three hours or before physical activities. Compression : Wearing compression leggings can help reduce blood pooling and keep blood flow where it’s most needed—your brain and upper body. Limit Time Spent Upright: Use a stool or set a timer to avoid too much physical strain while cooking. Patience is a key part of self-care—there’s no need to rush. Cooking with Others On days when you're not feeling your best, don’t hesitate to ask for help. Cooking with friends or family not only reduces physical strain but also provides an opportunity to enjoy quality time together. Delivery Services Online ordering can be a game-changer for managing chronic illness. Whether it’s grocery shopping or ordering takeout, delivery services help conserve your energy while ensuring you have nutritious meals readily available. This way, you can focus your energy on what matters most—your health and well-being. Final Note I hope this information comes in useful, whether it's for yourself, a loved one, or a friend. Feel free to drop any of your own useful tips and tricks in the comment section below.

In this classic camera review , we'll be continuing the Soviet theme by taking a look at the Zenit TTL. This 35mm SLR was first introduced in 1977, produced in the USSR, and also imported and sold in the UK. We'll explore the history of the Zenit , its strengths and weaknesses, and provide you with all the information you'll need to decide if this Soviet-made camera is right for you. A Brief History Zenit cameras have their origins in the early 1950s. The first model was based on the Zorki rangefinder, which itself was a copy of the Leica II. The manufacturing of Zenit cameras primarily took place in the town of Krasnogorsk near Moscow beginning in 1952. Later, production also expanded to Belarus through the BelOMO factory from the 1970s onwards. In the initial years of production, until the release of the Zenit-E in 1967, Zenit's development was closely aligned with that of the Zorki line. The Zenit cameras evolved alongside Zorki models, sharing technological advancements and design principles. Between 1967 and 1969, KMZ, the manufacturer, established an automatic die-cast moulding line, enabling mass production of Zenit cameras. During this period, the cameras transitioned from using the M39 screw mount to the M42 mount, although some models continued to use both mounts concurrently. The first line of semi-automatic Zenit cameras started with the Zenit 4, introduced in 1964, which featured a selenium light meter. During this era, camera controls commonly linked shutter speed and aperture, allowing users to easily switch between exposure combinations of equal Exposure Value (EV), simplifying the process for photographers. In 1965, the Zenit-E was introduced, becoming one of the most popular models. It was produced in enormous quantities, with over 12 million units—including various subtypes—manufactured over the years. The Zenit-E helped establish Zenit's reputation as a reliable and affordable camera brand during the Soviet era. In 1977, Zenit introduced the Zenit-TTL, which was the first model equipped with through-the-lens (TTL) metering, enhancing exposure accuracy and ease of use. Throughout its history, Zenit continued to release updated models featuring newer technologies, although the overall form factor changed very little. Some of these updates included automatic exposure modes and different lens mounts, allowing the brand to maintain its presence in the market until production ceased in 2005. Aesthetics and Build Quality If I had to describe Zenit cameras with a single phrase, it would be "brick-like." The Soviet Union's communist principles are very much reflected in their design philosophy and manufacturing approach; the Zenit TTL features a simple, utilitarian design that contributed to their efficient and affordable mass production. This isn't necessarily a bad thing; the camera feels solid and dependable, with a fully metal construction. The surprisingly smooth film advance lever clicks satisfyingly as it turns, and the shutter button, along with the loud mirror slap, embodies the camera's emphasis on simplicity over luxury. The Zenit TTL's simple construction means there is less that can go wrong with the camera. Zenit cameras have always been the cheapest of the cheap, and due to high production quotas, there's a wide variation in build quality. I've never had any issues with them, but in my experience, their light meters tend to be non-functional more often than not. Any tested and working examples have already survived nearly 50 years, and with the right care, they should continue to function well. Most non-working examples are due to neglect, such as sitting in a damp loft or being unused for long periods. Unfortunately, the low value of Zenit cameras generally makes it uneconomical to pay for professional repairs. Finding a replacement shouldn’t be too difficult if something does go wrong. Most cameras of this age could probably benefit from a CLA (cleaning, lubrication, and adjustment), which can be easily performed at home. Layout and Controls The control layout for the Zenit TTL is very standard. It features an ISO selector around the rewind dial and a shutter speed dial with speeds ranging from 1/30th to 1/500th of a second, as well as a bulb mode. The frame counter is quite rudimentary and needs to be manually reset to zero each time you start a new roll of film. The only other items on the top plate are the shutter lock, the hot shoe, and the film advance lever. The battery is stored on the back of the camera, next to the viewfinder. When looking through the viewfinder with the shutter button half-pressed, the needle will indicate whether the image is overexposed or underexposed. The back is released by lifting a tab on the left side. On the front, you'll find a timer, which I would be cautious about using, as these are typically among the first components to fail on cameras of this age. Additionally, there is a flash sync socket. At the bottom of the camera, you'll find a threaded mount for attaching a tripod or other accessories. Lens Selection The Zenit TTL was sold with the 6-element 2.0/58mm "Helios" lens, which is based on the pre-war Zeiss Biotar that dates back to the 1930s. Helios lenses are well known for their swirly bokeh and have been used in big-budget movies such as Dune: Part Two and The Batman. Due to this, these "kit lenses" are now worth much more than the cameras they were originally sold with. The Zenit TTL features an M42 mount, which means there is an abundance of quality lenses to choose from, with options for every budget and preference. From the sharp lenses of Zeiss and Takumar to the affordable and charming "communist glass", options are plentiful across all price points. Price Due to the high demand for their included lenses, you can find plenty of Zenit bodies for £5 to £10, as people often buy them for the lens and then sell the body cheaply online or at flea markets. With a Helios lens, I still wouldn't advise spending more than £30 on a working example. There are so many of these cameras available online that you can easily find a bargain by bidding in auctions on eBay, which typically tend to end at lower prices than the Buy It Now options. When shopping online, ensure you purchase only from highly rated sellers or consider buying from a reputable used camera shop that offers a warranty. You can't go wrong with a working £5 camera, but if you're willing to stretch your budget a little further, Japanese or German M42 mount SLRs will be more reliable and ergonomic. Possible options include a Practica MTL 5b if you want to stay around the £10 mark, or a Pentax Spotmatic if you're looking for something much nicer that will last a lifetime, for around £50. Conclusion In conclusion, the Zenit TTL offers a no-frills approach to film photography. Its vintage utilitarian aesthetic, simple controls, and compatibility with a wide range of sharp lenses make it a suitable choice for enthusiasts seeking a hands-on experience while on a budget. Overall, the TTL provides a characterful camera with an interesting history, making it a worthwhile addition to any film photographer’s collection.

In this blog post, we'll be taking a look at how your diet can affect POTS symptoms and share some practical tips to help keep you feeling your best. What is POTS? First, let’s define POTS. Postural Orthostatic Tachycardia Syndrome (POTS) is a condition that falls under the umbrella of dysautonomia—a group of disorders related to dysfunction of the autonomic nervous system . The term “autonomic” refers to the self-governing nature of this system, which controls involuntary functions that we do not consciously regulate. These include breathing, digestion, heart rate, blood pressure, body temperature, sweating, and more. Why is Diet Important? Everyone knows eating a healthy, balanced diet is a key part of looking after their body, but this becomes even more important when living with a chronic illness. The autonomic nervous system regulates both heart rate and blood pressure, as well as the digestive system, and as a result, diet plays a big part in managing the condition POTS. Meal size and the types of food we eat can have a significant effect on our blood pressure, which is why certain foods can trigger unwanted symptoms. Many people with POTS also experience digestive issues in addition to those related to the heart, such as bloating, gas, diarrhoea, or constipation – all due to nervous system dysregulation. Eating Healthy With POTS Now we know why diet is important to people living with POTS; let's look at which foods to enjoy and which to avoid. We'll also share some helpful tips for managing food preparation. Hydration + Salt Before we dive into food choices, we need to talk about hydration—I’m sure everyone with a POTS diagnosis has heard how important it is to stay well-hydrated. In fact, we have a whole post dedicated to this topic, which you can find [ here ]. By increasing our fluid and salt intake, we can boost blood volume, helping our bodies function more efficiently and reduce symptoms like lightheadedness, dizziness, and an elevated heart rate. Although it might seem counterintuitive, increasing salt intake is actually beneficial. Higher salt levels help replenish lost electrolytes and promote better water absorption. They also replace electrolytes lost through sweating—a common symptom reported by many with POTS. It is recommended to drink around 3 litres of water daily. Hydration tablets are an easy way to maximise the benefits of the water you drink, as they contain those essential electrolytes and often include other important vitamins and minerals. Meal Size After eating a large meal, a significant amount of blood is redirected to the stomach to aid in digestion, which can cause a drop in blood pressure. That’s why it’s generally better to eat several smaller meals throughout the day rather than just two or three large ones. Meals based on protein-rich foods such as meat, fish, Quorn, soy, or beans tend to be more nutrient-dense compared to processed meals that can sit heavily in your stomach—more on that next. Whole Grains and Lean Fats Whole grains like quinoa, brown rice, and oats contain complex carbohydrates, fibre, vitamins, and minerals that provide the body with steady, long-lasting energy. They break down gradually, helping to sustain energy levels over a longer period of time. Unlike refined carbohydrates, whole grains support consistent energy release and are less likely to lead to blood sugar fluctuations. Eating smaller amounts of high-quality foods will pay off in the long run. Fibre-Rich Foods Given that digestive issues and symptoms of IBS are common for people living with forms of dysautonomia, prioritising gut health is essential. Fibre-rich foods play a vital role in supporting digestive wellness. Soluble fibre, found in oats, apples, and citrus fruits, helps improve nutrient absorption. Insoluble fibre, present in whole grains, vegetables, and nuts, aids in preventing constipation and encourages regular bowel movements. Anti-Inflammatory Foods Incorporating anti-inflammatory foods can be an effective strategy to manage digestive discomfort. Here are some key food types known to help reduce inflammation: Omega-3 Fatty Acids: Found in fatty fish such as salmon, herring, mackerel, sardines, tuna, striped bass, and anchovies. Fish oil supplements are the easiest way of increasing your omega-3 intake. Plant-Based Omega-3s: Vegetarians and vegans can obtain omega-3s from plant sources. Consuming nuts, seeds, and cooking with oils like rapeseed oil supplies these nutrients along with vitamin E, another compound that helps combat inflammation. Vitamin C: Also known as ascorbic acid, vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that helps reduce cellular damage and inflammation. It is abundant in fruits and vegetables, which should form the foundation of a healthy diet. Beneficial Bacteria: A balanced mix of beneficial bacteria in the gut can also help keep inflammation in check. To promote healthy intestinal flora, include plenty of probiotic- and prebiotic-rich foods in your diet. Click here to learn more about anti-inflanatory foods . Remember: Not all fermented foods contain live probiotics. Always check the label to ensure that live microorganisms are listed among the ingredients. Foods like yoghurt and cottage cheese typically specify 'live active cultures' on their packaging. Foods to Avoid or Limit: Large, heavy meals that can cause blood pooling Excessive alcohol, which can dehydrate you Caffeine, due to its effect on heart rate Processed foods high in added sugars and unhealthy fats Foods that trigger gastrointestinal symptoms, e.g., dairy Meal Preparation and Accommodations Plan and prepare meals when you’re feeling your best. Consider making multiple portions that can be frozen, providing quick and easy options for days when your symptoms are more challenging. Using a slow cooker or microwave can help minimise the need for prolonged standing and reduce the physical effort involved in cooking. Alternatively, keeping a stool in the kitchen will allow you the flexibility to enjoy the process while reducing the toll on your body. On days when you're not feeling your best, don’t hesitate to ask for help. Cooking with friends or family not only eases physical strain but also offers an opportunity to spend quality time together. Online ordering can be a game-changer for those managing chronic illness. Whether it's grocery shopping or ordering takeout, delivery services can help you conserve energy while ensuring you have nutritious meals readily available. Deliveries will allow you to focus your energy on what matters most—your health and well-being. Click here to learn about the benefits of choline for those living with POTS. Conclusion I hope readers will find the information in this blog post helpful. A few small changes can make a significant difference in our daily activities. You don’t have to implement everything at once—test different strategies and see what works best for you. And remember, treating yourself every now and then is perfectly fine too.

The Fed 3a is a 35mm rangefinder produced in the USSR, first introduced in 1961, a few revisions removed from the original Leica II copy. It retains most of the features of the previous model, the FED 2, and was the last model to feature a stepped deck with a recessed film advance lever and shutter button. In this classic camera review , we will explore the history of the Fed 3a , its strengths and weaknesses, and provide you with all the information you'll need to decide if this Soviet-made camera is right for you. A Brief History The FED rangefinder cameras were mass-produced from 1934 until around 1996. The factory originated from small workshops of the Children's Labour Commune, named after Felix Edmundovich Dzerzhinsky. The acronym "FED" was derived from his name. The workshops were established in December 1927 in Kharkiv, present-day Ukraine. In 1932, the new managing director of the factory, A.S. Bronevoy (Russian: А.С. Броневой), proposed producing a copy of the German Leica camera. During World War II, production was relocated to Siberia after the factory in Kharkiv was overrun by Nazi German forces. Starting in 19 55, FED began to introduce innovations: The FED-2 (1955–1970) combined the rangefinder with the viewfinder. The FED-3 (1961–1979) added slower shutter speeds. The FED-4 (1964–1977) featured a non-coupled selenium exposure meter. The FED-5 (1977–1996) came equipped with an exposure meter, while the FED-5B was a more affordable version without a meter, and the later FED-5C also appeared. Aesthetics and Build Quality The 3a was the last model to feature a stepped deck before the transition to a flat top plate. It's far from being a full "Leica clone" like the original FED 1 or Zorki 1, but its body shape makes it stand out when compared to the more commodified, later Soviet-era rangefinders. The rounded edges of the body and mushroom-shaped dials give the FED 3a a distinct charm—even if it’s not going to fool any onlookers into thinking you have a real Leica. The FED 3a's full metal construction and hefty weight (approximately 670 grams) make the camera feel sturdy and dependable. The round advance knob is unique in my camera collection, and while it's slower than using an advance lever, it’s quite a satisfying experience. This is the case for all of the FED's functions, which can be described as rudimentary but effective. Lens Selection Featuring an M39 mount, there's a diverse selection of classic lenses from well-known brands like Leica, Zeiss, Canon, and Industar. The FED line of cameras most often came with Industar or Jupiter 50mm lenses, typically f/2.8 or f/3.5. These lenses generally feature a fair amount of flare, vignetting, and soft corners, but remain satisfactorily sharp in the centre and have plenty of character. It's also important to keep in mind that the build quality among these Soviet lenses is always quite varied. With a wide variety of M39 lenses to choose from, there's an option for every budget and preference. From the sharp, high-quality lenses of Zeiss and Leica to the cheap and cheerful "communist glass," options are plentiful across all price points. It's worth noting that the viewfinder only displays a frame for 50mm lenses, so there will be fewer lens options when compared to an SLR. Layout and Controls The FED 3a features simple manual controls with no built-in light meter, which may be off-putting for people new to the world of film photography. However, others may appreciate the hands-on approach. At the top of the camera, you will find the film rewind lever, cold shoe, shutter speed dial, shutter button with lock, and the film advance knob. Important note:  The shutter must be cocked before changing the shutter speed to avoid damaging the mechanism. This is common with a few Soviet cameras from this era. Aperture and focusing are controlled on the lens. When looking through the viewfinder, there is a small patch that displays a faint image in the centre. When the two images align, you will be in focus. The only other item on the front of the camera is the delay timer. These are generally the first parts of the camera to fail, so I tend to avoid using them. To load film, there are two rotating latches that hold the back in place. For full instructions: Click Here I enjoy the basic functionality of the FED 3a, despite the issues my example has—I'll get to those later. My only real complaint is the small, dark viewfinder, which makes it difficult to see clearly in low light. It also features a large diopter correction ring around the viewfinder, which can make it hard to get your eye close enough to see the full frame. Additionally, the small focusing patch makes fine adjustments tricky, particularly in darker environments. As a result, I found that zone focusing was the easiest way to use the camera. I didn't find these issues discouraging; in fact, the lack of luxury is part of the camera's charm. If you are interested in bright and wide viewfinders, check out my review of the Olympus OM-1n , which features excellent viewfinder clarity and coverage (approximately 96%). Reliability The FED's simple construction means there is less that can go wrong with the camera. Generally, they're considered reliable if properly maintained, but there are some common issues to watch out for, with the most frequent fault being related to the shutter. Because the shutter must be cocked before selecting the shutter speed, many examples you find on auction sites like eBay may have inaccurate shutter speeds or could be completely bricked due to misuse. This was the case with my FED 3a, which had a misaligned /semi-broken shutter speed selector. I ended up finding a position where it worked and left it alone, using the aperture to adjust for exposure. Other issues with my copy included a misaligned focus and light leaks from an untimed shutter curtain when advancing the film. I remedied this by covering the lens while winding the film. However, this isn't the case for all FED 3a cameras. Any tested and working examples have already survived 60 years, and with the right care, they should continue to function well. Most cameras of this age could probably benefit from a CLA (cleaning, lubrication, and adjustment), but with over two million produced, finding a replacement shouldn’t be too difficult if something does go wrong. Price There are lots of FED 3s available on auction sites such as eBay, typically priced between £40 and £70 in the UK, and I’d try to aim for the lower end of that range. However, you'll have to keep an eye out for the 3a, which seems to be a little less common. When shopping online, ensure you only purchase from highly-rated sellers, or consider buying from a reputable used camera shop that offers a warranty. Before committing to a FED, it's also worth exploring some alternative cameras. Other Soviet rangefinders like the Zorki 4 or the Kiev series fall into a similar price range and can be great options to consider. Conclusion In conclusion, the FED 3a offers a no-frills approach to film photography. Its vintage aesthetic, simple controls, and compatibility with a wide range of sharp lenses make it a suitable choice for enthusiasts seeking a hands-on experience. Overall, the FED 3a provides a reliable and characterful camera at an accessible price point, making it a worthwhile addition to any film photographer’s collection. Sample photos: Click here

In this post, I'll share my experience from my first attempt at making a multilayered resin lens display. I'll be sharing a step-by-step guide, as well as some useful tips and tricks I learnt along the way. Preparation Selecting the Case: The first step was finding a display case that could fit each element from the lens. The case I found needed to be adapted so that the smaller end could open, as the resin had to be poured while the case was upright. After removing the end piece, I glued the original lid in place. Item List: Clear Resin: Link Mixing bowl Large bowl for heating the resin Funnel to avoid large drops when pouring The resin kits should include most of the tools you'll need, such as mixing sticks, brand-specific instructions, and gloves. Marking the Case + Resin Prep: Once the case was ready, I marked the points where each lens element would sit, spreading them out so all the pieces would be visible. Before starting with the resin, I filled the case with water up to the first marked line. This helped me work out how much resin I’d need for each layer, as well as the correct 2:1 ratio. Note: If you’re familiar with resin mixing, you can skip ahead to the next section. Mixing Resin First Attempt: My initial resin pour was a learning experience—an example of what not to do. I poured too quickly, which caused way too many bubbles. I researched the three most popular methods for bubble removal: Letting the resin sit and pop bubbles naturally Warming the resin in hot water Applying a hairdryer I tried all three but had limited success. The bubbles didn’t pop easily, and I ended up restarting the process. Better Technique: This time, I preheated the resin by placing the bottles in a bowl of hot water for a few minutes, and I poured it much more slowly. This resulted in significantly fewer bubbles. Then, I stirred the resin thoroughly for at least three minutes. It should turn cloudy, then become clear again. Once all the streaks disappear, you'll know it's ready. After mixing, I warmed the resin to help bubbles escape and improve clarity. Next, I carefully poured the resin up to the first marked line on the case, taking care to avoid making bubbles. To prevent large drops, I cut a plastic folder and used it as a makeshift funnel. The final step for the first layer was to leave it to sit for a full day to cure and dry properly before adding the next layer the following morning. Creating the Layers I repeated the process for each layer, being careful to avoid trapping bubbles under each element of the lens. The second piece sank because the previous layer wasn't fully solid before I placed it in the display. To prevent this, ensure each layer is fully cured and solid before proceeding. From then on, it was simply a matter of repeating the process until the case was full. Final Product The project was a good trial run, but the 2nd layer sinking did take away from the final result. If I was to do this again, I would invest in a resin mixer, an anti-bubble machine, and a case that opens from one end to streamline the process. Tips & Lessons Learned: Preheat your resin and pour slowly to reduce bubbles. Use proper measurements for resin and hardener. Be patient – allow the full 24 hours curing time between layers. Consider investing in tools like a mixer and bubble removal devices for better results. Feel free to check out the full video walkthrough at the top of the page. Thanks for reading!

Address: Hills Meadow Car Park, George St, Reading RG4 8DH Location Located on the north bank of the Thames in the heart of Reading, Christchurch Meadows is an inviting green space, featuring shaded trees that are perfect for warm summer days. It features play facilities for children and views over the river, making it an ideal spot for relaxation and outdoor enjoyment. What's There? At Christchurch Meadows, you will find: River views Picnic area Children’s play area Whittington's Tea Barge Fishing Tennis courts Toilets Changing rooms Cycling Whittington's Tea Barge This quirky on-the-water café is open from March until the Sunday before Christmas. Friday through Sunday: 10:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. They serve a variety of teas and coffees, freshly made sandwiches, scones, and a selection of cooked options. For more info: Click Here . View Island View Island is located at the eastern end of the meadows, just a short distance from the car park. It is a quiet space, with seating areas and a view of Caversham Weir. It also connects Christchurch Meadows with King's Meadows on the southern side of the Thames. Throughout the island, visitors will find information boards about the hydroelectric power plant as well as the local wildlife. This includes a fish pass stream that winds through View Island. Click here for more info about View Island's accessibility Parking Hills Meadow Car Park is very spacious, offering nearly 300 parking spaces. It is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, and includes numerous disabled parking spaces. Stay up to Price 2 hours £3.50 5 hours £6.50 24 hours £11 Weekend – 3 hours £3.10 Weekend – 6 hours £5.10 Weekend – 24 hours £10.00 Night Rate: – Enter car park after 6.00pm – Exit car park before 8.00am next day £2.50 Payment method: Cards and RingGo - location code 9471 Blue Badge holders park for free Accessibility There are level paths throughout the meadows, allowing easy access for visitors using mobility aids such as wheelchairs and mobility scooters, as well as parents with pushchairs. Cycling is also permitted at this location, making it suitable for visitors who use e-bikes as mobility aids. There is gentle sloped access from the car park down to the riverside path that runs the length of the meadows. There are frequent benches along the main path, with the largest gaps being approximately 50 metres. The accessible toilets, located next to the swimming pool and tennis courts, are roughly 150 metres from the car park. Conclusion Caversham War Memorial In summary, Christchurch Meadows is an ideal spot for a relaxing family outing. With its charming café, children’s play facilities, and level paths with plenty of benches for easy access, this picturesque spot truly caters to visitors of all ages and abilities.

Address: View Island, Berkshire, Reading RG1 8AF Location View Island lies in the River Thames, nestled between Christchurch Meadows to the north and King's Meadows to the south. Throughout the island, visitors will find information boards that share details about the hydroelectric power plant and local wildlife, including a fish pass stream that meanders through the island. Parking There are two car parks close to the island: Hills Meadow Car Park is very spacious, with nearly 300 parking spaces. It is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, and includes numerous disabled parking spaces. King's Meadow Car Park has 95 spaces and is also open 24 hours, seven days a week. There are 2 disabled parking spaces. Payment method: Cards and RingGo - location code 9471 (Hills Meadows) Cards and RingGo - location code 9472 (Kings Meadow) Blue Badge holders park for free Accessibility The main paths to the island from either side of the river are paved and wide enough for mobility scooter and wheelchair users. Once on the island, the paths are level with some uneven sections (pictured above). The bridge from Christchurch Meadows is fairly steep. There is a step to cross Caversham Lock from Kings Meadow Car Park. There are benches approximately every 50 metres on the island. There are larger gaps without places to rest before reaching the island from both sides of the river, with distances of roughly 100-150 metres. Hills Meadow Car Park is at a slightly greater distance, but there are more benches along the path. Conclusion View Island is perfect for a quiet break from the busy town of Reading, and with the surrounding meadows and parkland, there's plenty to explore.

Address : Mucking Wharf Road, Stanford-le-Hope SS17 0RN Location The Thameside Nature Discovery Park is located on a site that was once used as a landfill, but it has now been reclaimed and restored back into a thriving habitat for local wildlife. The viewing platform at the top of the visitor centre offers 360-degree views over the Thames Estuary and surrounding wetlands. The Nature Park is home to a wide variety of animals, including barn owls, short-eared owls, water voles, harvest mice, skylarks, cuckoos, and shrill carder bees. You might also spot local cattle grazing on the grassland throughout the year. Opening Times Thameside Nature Discovery Centre is open 7 days a week. Winter opening hours: 10am - 4pm (4 November – 14 February) Summer opening hours: 10am – 5pm (15 February – 3 November) Christmas opening hours: Christmas Eve (10am – 2pm) Closed Christmas Day & Boxing Day New Year’s Eve (10am – 2pm) What's There? At the Thameside Nature Discovery Park, you will find: Visitor Centre Café – serving teas, coffees, and fresh smoothies Picnic area Outdoor play area Gift shop – featuring nature books, soft toys, binoculars, and bird food Walking and cycling trails Modern toilets and accessible facilities, including a dedicated baby changing area The visitor centre’s distinctive round design offers panoramic views from every angle. Inside, visitors can relax in the café or browse the shop for gifts and nature supplies. There are three trails designed to suit visitors of all needs, and complemented by a well-equipped play area, this riverside attraction is perfect for visitors of all age groups. Parking The main car park is large, with space for 80 cars, and parking is free. There are 4 blue badge parking spaces, located approximately 80 metres from the visitor centre. Accessibility All areas of the discovery centre, including the viewing platform at the top, are accessible via ramps. Plenty of seating is available on each floor. The distance from the farthest end of the car park to the discovery centre is just over 200 metres. The Estuary View Trail is short at 0.3 miles, featuring a gravel path with very gentle slopes, access to the bird-spotting huts, and multiple benches along the way. This makes this short loop accessible for people of all ages and abilities. The other trails are longer and feature mown grass surfaces. Conclusion Overall, Essex Wildlife Trust’s Thameside Nature Discovery Park is the perfect destination for a family day out. With a variety of wildlife to see, walking trails, a play area, a café, and accessible features, the discovery park will appeal to visitors of all ages and abilities. The accessible viewing point from the top of the discovery centre really makes this location stand out.

In this blog post, we'll explore why sleep is important, particularly for people living with POTS and other forms of dysautonomia. We'll also take a look at the best strategies for improving your overall quality of sleep as well. What is POTS? First, let’s define POTS. Postural Orthostatic Tachycardia Syndrome (POTS) is a condition that falls under the umbrella of dysautonomia—a group of disorders related to dysfunction of the autonomic nervous system . The term “autonomic” refers to the self-governing nature of this system, which controls involuntary functions that we typically do not consciously regulate. These include breathing, digestion, heart rate, blood pressure, body temperature, sweating, and more. Why Is Sleep Important? Sleep is important for everyone, but especially for people living with chronic illnesses. Quality sleep allows the body to recharge, boosting the immune system, and improving appearance by reducing signs of aging. Getting enough rest also enhances memory and helps clear brain fog (a common symptom of POTS ) by processing the information accumulated throughout the day. A consistent sleep routine is also a powerful tool for reducing anxiety and depression, enabling you to weather daily stresses more effectively. Sleep also plays a crucial role in cardiovascular health. Poor sleep can keep the sympathetic nervous system (the “fight or flight” response) activated throughout the night, which can worsen POTS symptoms; calming this part of the nervous system is a key aspect of managing the condition . POTS and Sleep Hygiene What is sleep hygiene? Sleep hygiene refers to healthy habits that promote consistent, quality sleep. Good sleep hygiene helps regulate your sleep-wake cycle and enhances overall restfulness. Now, let’s explore the best ways to improve your sleep quality. Routine Establishing a regular sleep schedule by waking up at the same time every day helps your body maintain a natural rhythm. Consistency in your sleep and wake times reinforces your circadian cycle, making it easier to fall asleep and wake up feeling refreshed. Exercise is also important for sleep. Regular physical activity can help you fall asleep faster and enjoy deeper rest. However, intense workouts close to bedtime may be stimulating, so aim to complete exercise earlier in the day. Catching up on sleep with naps or lying in on weekends is generally ineffective because it can disrupt your sleep pattern and prevent you from reaching REM sleep stages, which are vital for mental and physical restoration. If you're planning to improve your sleep routine, make gradual adjustments—shifting your bedtime or wake-up time by only an hour or two each day—to ease your body into the new schedule. Relaxation Creating a calming nighttime routine can significantly ease the transition into sleep. Engage in relaxing activities before bed to help your mind and body wind down. Guided meditation videos and apps are great tools to help settle your nervous system in the evening. These relaxation techniques are beneficial not only at bedtime but also during the day, helping to calm the nervous system—a crucial aspect for managing POTS symptoms. I have linked some useful relaxation resources at the bottom of the page. Avoid screens is another effective way to relax your mind in the evenings. The blue light emitted by phones, tablets, and computers tricks your brain into thinking it’s daytime, which suppresses melatonin production and makes falling asleep more difficult. Limiting screen time at least an hour before bed can improve sleep quality. Diet Being mindful of your diet will help to support restful sleep. While alcohol may initially make you feel sleepy, it impairs the restorative stages of sleep and can also worsen sleep apnea, as well as increase sleepwalking and talking. It’s best to avoid caffeine in the late afternoon and evening (or in general for POTS patients), as it’s a stimulant that can interfere with falling asleep. Another thing to avoid in the evenings is large, heavy meals close to bedtime, as digestion can disrupt sleep. Aim for lighter options if you’re hungry before bed. Additionally, large meals can trigger POTS symptoms because digestion causes blood to be redirected to the stomach, which can lower blood pressure. Creating the Ideal Sleep Environment Your bedroom environment plays a vital role in sleep quality. Here are some tips: Keep the room cool—around 18°C—to facilitate better sleep. Choose a comfortable mattress suited to your preferences and needs. Ensure the space is dark; consider blackout curtains or an eye mask. Minimize noise with earplugs or a white noise machine if needed. Use calming scents like lavender, which has been associated with relaxation and sleep for centuries. Additional tip: train your body to associate the bedroom with sleep by limiting its use for resting only. Spending minimal time in bed during the day can strengthen this association, although this can be challenging for those with more sever symptoms. Conclusion In conclusion, adopting good sleep hygiene practices can significantly improve sleep quality, which is especially beneficial for managing POTS and dysautonomia symptoms. Small, consistent adjustments to your routine and environment can lead to better rest and overall health. Use-full Resources: Sources: Why is Sleep Important: NHS Website , Mental Health Foundation , Bupa UK What is Sleep Hygiene: Wiki , UHS NHS How to Sleep Well: Sleep Foundation , NHS , Healthline Relaxation Resources Healthy Minds App: https://hminnovations.org/meditation-app Calm App: https://www.calm.com Guided Meditation YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=guided+meditation Practical Meditation Book: Link

Welcome to the third instalment of our camper conversion series! In this post, we'll start by guiding you through the process of insulating your van's floor. Once the insulation is in place, we’ll move on to reinstalling the plywood floor and finish with vinyl flooring. You'll find a step-by-step guide along with helpful tips and tricks for your own conversion project. A full walkthrough video is included at the bottom of the page. What You'll Need Item List 10mm sound deadening/insulation roll: Link Aluminium foil tape: Link Vinyl flooring of your choice Floor trim: Link Adhesive spray: Link Tools Used Electric screwdriver Stanley blade Scissors Fabric scissors Measuring tape Step One: Measuring Insulation For this step we used: 10mm Sound deadening/insulation roll Measuring tape Scissors Aluminium foil tape After removing the plywood floor in part one of the series, we're now left with a blank canvas to work with. We started by measuring around the trim and wheel arches of the van. Like in previous steps of the conversion, we used cardboard to transcribe any shapes onto the insulation to make sure we'd get a good fit. After we were happy with our first measurements, we moved on to the backside of the van. At the far end of the van, we measured around the trim which would remain exposed, this time drawing the markings on the reverse side by eye. I found this method surprisingly effective. Step Two: Installing the Insulation After the insulation was cut to shape, we separated the piece into two sections. This would make installation easier and allow us to make any adjustments where needed. Once we were happy with the measurements, we were ready to stick down our first pieces. Note about our method I avoided using a wooden frame on the floor, as I didn't want to lose any headspace while sitting in the van. Initially, the plan was to use 10 mm wood to leave space for the insulation, but after realising the ribs in the van's floor were around the same size, I didn't want to raise it any more than needed. This ended up making reinstalling the floor more difficult later on, as we needed to drill extra holes to ensure the warped plywood sat evenly when fastened. If I were to do this again, I would glue a wooden frame down and screw into it, rather than the van floor. After that, we focused on insulating the remaining exposed areas of the floor. To maximise our materials and minimise waste, we cut the insulation into smaller pieces, the width of the insulation roll, rather than one long piece. Once the floor was completely covered, we applied aluminium foil tape along the seams where the insulation pieces met, completing the final step of the insulation process. Step Three: Cutting Out The Vinyl Flooring Tools used: Fabric scissors Stanley knife Pen We started by laying down the vinyl flooring and then placed the original plywood floor on top. Using the plywood as a stencil, we traced its shape onto the vinyl. Next, we used fabric scissors to cut out the majority of the vinyl floor before switching to a Stanley knife to cut the holes for the circular mounting points. Step Four: Installing Vinyl Flooring Into The Van Tools used: Adhesive spray x2 Level or metre stick to flatten out the floor Fabric scissors/knife for adjustments After cutting out the vinyl flooring, the next step was to reinstall the plywood floor in the van. Once the plywood was back in the van, I placed duct tape over the point where the two sections met to make the surface smoother before installing the vinyl. After that, I rolled out the vinyl and checked if it fit correctly, making some adjustments around the wheel arches, which were now a little narrower after the insulation was installed. We began by applying adhesive spray to the surfaces at the front end of the van after ensuring everything was lined up correctly. Once that first section was firmly in place, we rolled up the flooring and continued applying adhesive, working our way back in sections. I'd recommend using a long, flat object, such as a metre stick or a level, to smooth out the floor as you lay it down to avoid any bumps or bubbles. Tip: Make sure to use adhesive spray with high temperature resistance, as it will get hot in your van during the summer, no matter the insulation. Once the floor was fully adhered, I used a Stanley knife to trim the edges so there was no overhang, which would make installing the protective trip easier later on. Step Five: Installing Trim The first step was to measure and cut the upper section of the trim. I made cuts at each point where the trim would need to bend. When there were the bends would cause the trim to fold over itself; I marked the point where they met and used this marking to cut out a V-shape. This would allow the pieces to fit together smoothly. Once I was confident with the measurements, I started sticking down the top section of the trim. I did this part first because it would be the most visible. Since these top sections were cut, I was able to remove the adhesive tape piece by piece and stick down each part individually. After the entire top section was fully securely in place, I removed the tape from the lower section, which peeled off in one continuous strip. I then wedged the trim down firmly to make sure it would stick properly. Finally, I filled in the gaps that were created when the trim was bent at an angle. I filled these gaps in by cutting small pieces from the unused trim and placing them in the openings. I used a small amount of adhesive spray to secure these pieces and cleaned up any excess with acetone after they were fully set. What's Next? In the next instalment of our campervan conversion series, we’ll be installing a roof vent for improved airflow in the van. For more van content, visit my YouTube channel here . Click here for a full list of all our campervan conversion posts Full Walkthrough Video: